Day 91: Impressions of Cambodia

Opinion on Cambodia was the most divided of any country I visited. Some thought it wonderful, and others thought it terrible.

That division fit my experience perfectly.

Experience

It’s a cliché to say that Cambodia is a land of extremes. Yet it’s undeniably true. Angkor is a unique place. The Khmer Rouge perpetrated some of the vilest crimes in history. The country has the legacy an powerful empire and remains crippled by it’s horrible recent past. Poverty is terrible here and the beaches are beautiful. The top tourist attractions include both the killing fields and Angkor Wat.

Siem Reap was the starkest example of this conflicted nature. The temples were beautiful yet marred by the hordes of fellow tourists. So many rich tourists in such a small, poor, place created the environment for the slimy nightlife and opportunistic price gouging to flourish. Only after I made some kind of peace with this fact could I begin to enjoy it. Still, it was a harsh introduction to the country. It makes me sad to consider that many people’s only time in Cambodia is there.

After Siem Reap, Cambodia felt more hospitable to me. Sihanoukville was a fabulous place to relax and just watch the impossibly-turquoise waters lap over glowing white sand. Certainly it wasn’t a cultural experience, but it was wonderful.

Last but not least, the biggest surprise was Phnom Penh. Despite only having 24 hours in the city and it has whet my appetite to return. After the quiet of the beach, I found this bustling city very exciting. Massive construction was everywhere, juxtaposing dire shacks with modern-looking apartment blocks. But the best part? Proper street food again! Real markets!

The Cambodian people were among the friendliest. Away from the tourist traps, I feel I had more warm smiles returned there than anywhere else.

Costs

Food was surprisingly costly in Cambodia. It was hard to get meals for less than $3. Maybe this is simply due to my visiting big cities and tourist areas, but Thailand remains the least expensive place to eat to which I’ve travelled. Those 40 bhat local restaurant meals rock.

Accommodation was inexpensive. $5 dorms or $12 privates. $8 ‘luxury’ dorms are a thing, too.

Next Time…

There definitely will be a next time. Now that I’ve seen Angkor, I’ll be able to avoid the worst of the tourist vortex. Smaller towns like Kampot and Battambang promise a more low-key, authentic, experience. Cambodia took the most time of any of my destinations to get used to; I feel there’s so opportunity to enjoy myself better next time now that I know what to expect.