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As my magical time in Bali recedes into the ancient awe of Angkor, I thought I’d write down my impressions of some of the wonderful memories and impressions before they fade completely.

These are mainly personal impressions and may not be meaningful to others. Sometimes I write only for myself.

Fittingly, I’m making the final edits on this just as I leave Siem Reap for Sihanoukville, another change of venue.

Ceremonies

Outside every door and in every temple, uncountable trays of offerings. Ceremonies parading down the streets in Ubud or marking the passages of life in family homes or beaches.

Taste

Jamu everywhere; wonderful Jamu at Bali Buda and Kafe. Making Jamu in the class. Mie goreng in Meditasi. Burbur injin — black rice pudding — at Villa Sunrise in Tejakula and Meditasi. Perfect curry at Warung Little India. Cappuccinos at Anomali and FREAK. Kopi bali every day in Ubud.

Fabulous meals at Yellow Flower Café. Those corn fritters…

Ayam nanas as Warung Enak in Amed. Incredible balance of pineapple-sweetness with just the right amount of spice.

Cap cay and soto ayam to comfort my cold and heal my sinus problems.

Delicious chai tea brought from the U.S. by Melissa.

Snake fruit (salak), mangosteens and rambutan. Tiny Bali peanuts in vacuum plastic bags.

Water

Water for diving, my first time. For snorkeling. Water pouring from the sky in thundering torrents and washing down the streets in rivers. Holy water for purification; sprinkled on offerings and people alike. Hot spring water. Cold spring water. Water temples and water palaces.

Sounds

The strange, carnival-like gamelan music attending the Hindu call to prayer. The bell ringing of the priests during the purification ceremonies.

Sights

Giant Hawk’s Bill turtles underwater while diving. Spectacular green of the rice fields.

Temples everywhere. Entranceways like split obelisks. Black straw roofs.

Intricate stonework temples and arches. Rectilinear like Minecraft.

Words

Selamat, and the frustration of following it with the right time of day: pagi? malam?

Land

Such a crinkled landscape. So much time traveling such shorts line on the map. Too much time spent in cars and minivans.

People

Welcoming. Harassing to buy in the market. Open and inviting to ceremonies. Living with patience and balance.